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Are you curious about how and why jobs fail? Are you curious about the products and methods an installer is using in your home?

One of the main contributing factors to a failed installation is improper methods due to lack of knowledge or care.

 

Here are a few answers to some questions you might have:

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My installer says Cement Board is waterproof, is this true?

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What type of waterproofing will you do in my shower or tub surround?

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How much will my shower/floor/backsplash cost? 

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Is tile waterproof?

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How can I prevent stains on my grout?

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Why is my tile floor cracked?

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How should I clean my tile and grout?

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Should I seal my natural stone? 

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Can I use ceramic tile outside if it doesn’t freeze often?

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What is a PEI rating?

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What do Shade, Caliber and Rectified mean?

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What is the difference between ceramic & porcelain tiles?

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Do ceramic and porcelain tiles vary in quality?

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My tile is starting to pop loose/sound hollow. Why? 

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Q: My installer says Cement Board is waterproof, is this true?

A: No, it might be considered water "resistant" however it is a porous material and as such, will readily absorb water. Click HERE for an example showing moisture working its way through a tiled display sitting outside overnight.

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Q: What type of waterproofing will you do in my shower or tub surround?

A: There are a variety of products each with their own limitations and each with their own positives. As an example, Kerdi Board, a product of Schluter Systems is a waterproofing system we most often recommend due to its proven history for creating a water tight seal in shower applications. For more on what Kerdi (as well as the Ditra and Ditra Heat lines) is, the specifications and warranty information, please refer to their website which can be found HERE.

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Q: How much will my shower/floor/backsplash cost? 

A: There are too many variables to give a definitive cost estimate without first seeing the area to be tiled. An example such as an open living room floor may include, what is the substrate? Is it a concrete floor? If so, does it require a lot of prep work such as the removal of paint or other contaminates? Does it have cracks? If so, how will they be repaired to prevent telegraphing through to your new tile floor? Are there high or low spots? If so, how much time and material will need to be used to fix those areas? And so on...each type of substrate has a new set of questions and methods for installation and each one needs to be looked at on an individual basis which makes it nearly impossible to give a sight unseen cost estimate.

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Q: Is tile waterproof?

A: Tile is divided into several categories.

• Non-vitreous: These are tiles that absorb 7% or more of its body weight. These are for indoor use only, normally on vertical surfaces such as backsplashes and wainscots.

• Semi-vitreous: These absorb between 3% and 7%. These are also for indoor use only.

• Vitreous: Absorb between 0.5% and 3%. These tiles may be used for interior and exterior applications.

• Impervious: These are the most dense (porcelain) and absorb between 0.001% and 0.5% of their weight in water. They are suitable for nearly all applications.

So in short, no tile is 100% waterproof but there are different choices for different applications.

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Q: How can I prevent stains on my grout?

A: There are numerous types of sealers on the market however they are only to HELP prevent staining. If something is spilled on the grout, it allows you (if properly applied) time to clean the spill. Cementious grouts are not impervious to stains. There are other types of new an innovative grouts on the market that are much less susceptible to staining. Please ask us and we can recommend what grout is best for your specific application.

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Q: Why is my tile floor cracked?

A: There could be one of several factors contributing however the most common reason on a cement foundation is a crack in the foundation telegraphing through to your tile. Proper preparation of the sub-floor can lesson the possibility of this happening to your new floor. Also proper coverage underneath your tile must be at an absolute minimum of 80% coverage. We however strive for 100% coverage.

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Q: How should I clean my tile and grout?

A: We recommend first and foremost, hot water. If a cleaner must be used, choose a non-caustic cleaner specifically designed for floors. Make sure your read the instructions for use. After you use, we recommend you rinse thoroughly with hot water. After that, we recommend you rinse it again. Any residue left from cleaners can and will attract more dirt and stains.

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Q: My tile is starting to pop loose/sound hollow. Why?

A: This can be many different factors but in general, most (not all) of the time, the answer is due to poor installation practices/techniques or improper materials used or a combination of both.

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Q: Should I seal my natural stone? 

A: It is strongly recommend that you seal all of your natural stone to provide maximum stain protection. Select a high quality penetrating/impregnating sealer. These sealers will provide a natural, no-sheen look and are good for interior and exterior use. Be sure to read the packaging to insure that the sealer you have chosen is right for your particular application.

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Q: Can I use ceramic tile outside if it doesn’t freeze often?

A:If you live in a zone that gets frost at all, you should not put ceramic tile outdoors. The reason we do not recommend you install it outdoors is because the body of the ceramic tile can absorb small amounts of water during the day, then at night when the temperature drops below 32 degrees F, the water inside the tile can expand, crack the tile and/or pop the tile off of the mortar bed. You should select a porcelain tile because the body will not absorb water and is not at risk to expand when it freezes.

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Q: What is a PEI rating?

A: PEI is a measurement of the “abrasion resistance” of a tile, meaning how much “rubbing” does it take to physically impact the look of the tile. The test is scored on a scale of 1 to 5 and each value represents a durability to withstand increasingly more demanding traffic.

PEI 1, Very Light Traffic - These tiles can be used on all indoor wall applications, for countertops such as bathrooms, and very light traffic residential bathroom floors. These tiles are not recommended for any area that will have any constant or heavy floor traffic. Creative Tile & Stone does not recommend these to be used on floors.

PEI 2, Light Traffic - These tiles can be used on all indoor wall applications, interior countertops applications and light traffic residential bathroom floors. These tiles should not be used in areas such as kitchens, entry ways, stairs or areas with heavy traffic. Creative Tile & Stone does not recommend these to be used on floors.

PEI 3, Moderate Traffic - These tiles can be used on all indoor wall applications, all interior countertop applications and all residential interior floors. This tile should not be used in commercial applications.

PEI 4, Moderate to Heavy Traffic - These tiles can be used on all indoor wall applications, all interior countertop applications, all residential interior floors and all light commercial applications, such as restaurants and lobbies. This tile should not be used in heavy commercial applications.

PEI 5, Heavy Traffic - These tiles can be used on all indoor wall applications, all interior countertops applications, all residential interior floors and all heavy commercial applications, such as airports, shopping malls, supermarkets, etc. This tile is an excellent choice for industrial applications where extreme durability is required.

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Q: What do Shade, Caliber and Rectified mean?

A: Shade: When the ink is mixed and applied to the tile, there could be a slight variation in the color after the tile goes through the kiln. The factory will separate these slight shifts in “color” and designate them as different “shades” and then each shade is indicated on the carton. 

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Caliber: When the tile goes through the kiln, the heat removes the moisture from the tile and it will shrink by 7% to 10%. As conditions change in the factory (humidity, heat) and inside the kiln (temperatures fluctuate slightly inside the kilns), the tiles will shrink at different percentages and could be slightly different sizes. Like shade, factories will separate calibers and identify them on the cartons. 

 

Rectified: A rectified tile has a process AFTER it is cooked, the edges of the tiles are all cut to a 90 degree edge, and this allows the factory to cut every tile to the same exact size (no caliber differences). With 90 degree edges and one caliber, the installer can install the tiles with a minimal grout line. The benefit is a floor that is more tile and less a grid work of grout lines, leaving less maintenance on the new floor. 

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Q: What is the difference between ceramic & porcelain tiles?

A: Ceramic tiles have been around for over 2000 years. They typically have a white or red clay body with some form of glaze on top. Porcelain tile cost more than ordinary ceramic tile because you are generally getting a superior product. Porcelain tile require the finest natural ingredients and a rigidly controlled manufacturing process that utilizes the most advanced processes and technology. Porcelain tiles are made from an extremely finely powdered clay tablet that is pressed under enormous pressure and heat - several hundred degrees hotter than ceramics. Porcelain tiles are much harder and more dense than ceramic tiles. This allows porcelain tiles to be made in very large formats that would be impossible to achieve in a ceramic tile. Porcelain tiles will also often have a colored body that matches the surface glaze, or have a color and pattern that extends all the way through the tile. This avoids a common problem with ceramics where the glaze gets chipped and exposes the color of the clay body underneath.

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Q: Do ceramic and porcelain tiles vary in quality?

A: Tile manufacturers grade their products as they come out of the factory. Defective products generally are clearly labeled "2nd Quality" by Italian manufacturers and are sold at a lesser price. The ASTM standard C-1027 describes test method for determining visible abrasion resistance of glazed ceramic tile. Classification for durability is based upon both the results of this test. All unglazed tile should meet Class IV+ standards when installed in either commercial or residential installations.

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Class 0: Generally not recommended for use on floors

Class I: Light traffic, for residential bathroom floors

Class II: Medium-Light Traffic, residential interiors with the exceptions of kitchens, stairs, landings and areas near external entries.

Class III: Medium-Heavy Traffic, all residential applications. Commercial applications which are similar in traffic to residential applications. Specifically excepted are areas of prevalent circulation or turning points.

Class IV: Heavy Traffic, all residential and most commercial applications such as the public areas of exhibition halls, hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, shops and schools.

Class IV+: Extra Heavy Traffic, all residential and commercial applications similar to Class IV where extra durability may be required.

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For more Questions and Answers you may not see here, Refer to the FAQs section of the National Tile Contractors Association (NTCA) which can be found HERE. 

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If you still have questions, please feel free to use form on the Contact page found HERE.

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